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Last night we ventured to the barrio of San Cristobal and visited the milonga at Club Gricel, one of the classic tango clubs of Buenos Aires.
Milongeros tango away.
The barrio, on the south side of town is pure tango. The streets are grey; the buildings smaller than downtown and more chi-chi barrios. And the tango danced at Club Gricel, especially Friday night, is traditional. Older tangueros–total characters–step out in vests, suits and ties and the damas, in shiny gold dance shoes, ruffled dresses and lots of fishnets.
Tables surround the large dance floor. Above one end, at the bar, the name of the club glows in pink neon lights.
I went with Francis and Silvana, where we met with several of her friends. Todas divinas!
We had a great time, though we talked more than danced. (The most, during the cumbia!)
I brought my tango shoes, of course. They are the first shoes I ever bought, and though battered and worn and after two visits to the shoe doctor, they are still the most comfortable.
I sat on the edge of the table, hoping someone would ask me to dance.
Tango has its own codes. Hardly anyone will ask you to dance if they don’t know you. And if you don’t dance well, they likely won’t ask again.
The trick is to make eye contact. It has to be more than a glance. A direct look is an unspoken invitation to dance. Then a nod and a couple heads to the dance floor.
I kept trying to catch people’s eyes. But no, no one! One guy was hanging around our table and seemed like he was eager to tango. But not a single glance.
Finally, I got up, walked up to him and asked: Bailas? Do you dance?
We started a tango and he told me that he didn’t think anyone at the table danced. (We were probably joking and laughing way too much for a milonga at Gricel where people are serious about dancing and smile mostly after a dance.)
After a few tangos, we ended and he said: We’ll keep dancing.
And we did several tangos later.
After that, several others asked me to dance.
I even did a milonga, which is harder than tango. It’s faster, with a different rhythm.
Silvana told me: They’ve given you the diploma of tango, here in the temple of tango!
At about 3 a.m., the club did their raffle…. And Silvana won! The prize: a bottle of champagne for the table!
Silvana wins a champagne toast for the table.
Salud!
More photos, by Silvana:
Where's Laura: dancing in the middle.
People dance until the late a.m.
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